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Carrying extra fuel is what extends a 4×4 from day trips into genuine remote touring, letting you reach places where the next pump is a long way off. It is also the piece of kit that most rewards doing properly, because fuel is heavy, flammable and unforgiving of a poor container or a careless mount. The choices come down to what the can is made of, how well it seals, and how securely and safely you carry it. Get those right and spare fuel is a quiet insurance policy; get them wrong and it is a leaking, fume-filled liability. The picks below cover steel and poly cans, flat packs and a secure holder.
Quick Picks
- Best overall: Wavian NATO Steel Jerry Can — military-spec steel, leak-proof, near-indestructible.
- Best plastic: Scepter Military Fuel Container (MFC) — tough NATO-pattern HDPE, won’t rust, patchable.
- Best modular: RotopaX Fuel Pack — flat, stackable packs that bolt to racks and flat surfaces.
- Best value steel: Anvil Off-Road Jerry Can — quality steel can and spout for less.
- Best mounting: Front Runner / quality jerry can holder — secure external mount that keeps fuel out of the cabin.
Carrying Fuel Safely
Start from safety and compliance, then choose the container. Fuel should be carried in a proper, approved container that seals against leaks and fumes, mounted securely outside the living space, never loose inside the cabin. Beyond that, decide between steel and plastic based on durability versus weight, and match the size and shape to the space you have on a rack or rear bar. Check the rules where you travel on how much fuel you may carry and how it must be stored, then buy the container and mount to suit.
Steel or plastic. Steel jerry cans are tough, long-lasting and handle heat and rough handling well, at the cost of more weight and the slow possibility of internal rust if water gets in. Quality plastic cans are lighter and will not rust, but they can degrade in years of strong sun and may swell or breathe slightly with temperature. For hard, long-term use steel is the traditional durable choice; for saving weight and avoiding rust, a good poly can works well. Whichever you choose, it must be an approved fuel container, not a general can pressed into service.
Sealing and pouring. A fuel container lives or dies on its seal. A good gasket keeps fuel and fumes in, which matters enormously when the can rides close to the cabin, so look for a proven sealing cap rather than a vague claim. Just as important is how it pours: a decent flexible spout or a dedicated pouring nozzle lets you fill the tank without spilling fuel down the paint or over your hands. Cheap cans that weep fumes or glug fuel everywhere are a false economy you smell on every trip.
Mounting. How you carry the can matters as much as the can itself. Fuel should be secured outside the cabin, on a roof rack, rear bar or a dedicated holder, where any leak or fume vents to open air rather than into the space you breathe. A proper holder locks the can down so it cannot shift, rattle loose or be easily stolen, and keeps the weight where it does least harm to handling. Flat, mountable fuel packs bolt directly to racks and suit tight builds. Never simply throw a full can in the back and drive.
Size, and where to spend. Match the total capacity to the real distance between refuelling points, remembering that fuel is heavy and every full can raises the weight up high. Spend on approved containers with genuine seals, a good pourer and a secure holder, since those are safety items, and save by not carrying more fuel than you actually need. The mistakes that catch people out are using cheap, non-approved cans that leak fumes, carrying fuel inside the cabin, filling cans to the brim with no room to expand in heat, and mounting them so poorly that they work loose on corrugations.
Compliance and dedicated use. Look for cans that meet recognised standards (DOT/EPA/CARB or local equivalents) for safe fuel transport. And once a can has held petrol, earmark it for fuel only — don’t later use it for drinking water. Colour-coding (commonly red for petrol, yellow for diesel, blue for water) helps avoid dangerous mix-ups; many ranges offer matched colours. Have a quick look at the current and most recent options on Amazon for the jerry cans.
The Fuel Storage, Reviewed
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Wavian NATO Steel Jerry Can
The gold standard for toughness and safety. Built to military spec from cold-rolled steel with inner and outer anti-corrosive coating and an internal breather, it’s leak-proof, near-indestructible, and DOT/EPA/CARB-compliant, with a locking splash-proof bayonet spout that pours quickly and cleanly. The 20-litre size suits most vehicles, it comes in fuel and water colours, and Wavian makes a full range of matching carriers and mounts. Look after it and it’ll outlast your vehicle. The benchmark serious tourers keep coming back to. Have a quick look at the current and most recent options on Amazon for the Wavian NATO steel jerry can.
Scepter Military Fuel Container (MFC)
The best plastic can, trusted by NATO militaries. Made from rugged HDPE, it won’t rust, handles every climate and plenty of abuse, and a puncture can be plugged and patched on the trail — a genuine advantage over steel in remote country. It’s lighter than steel, seals well, and has a long-standing reputation for durability (replacement cap parts can occasionally be fiddly to source). For tourers who want toughness without the weight or rust risk of steel, it’s the standout. Have a quick look at the current and most recent options on Amazon for the Scepter Military Fuel Container.
RotopaX Fuel Pack
The modular mounting specialist. These flat, roto-moulded HDPE packs are designed for off-road and overlanding, with spill-proof valves, secure caps, and a LEGO-like stacking design that lets you bolt them to racks, flat surfaces, spare tyres, or crash bars and expand capacity by adding packs. They’re EPA/CARB-compliant and leak-proof, and the slim profile stows neatly. They’re pricey per litre and come in smaller sizes, so they suit modest range extension and clean rack mounting rather than carrying large volumes. Have a quick look at the current and most recent options on Amazon for the RotopaX Fuel Pack.
Anvil Off-Road Jerry Can
The value steel option. A 20-litre steel can with a safety cap and spout, it delivers much of the toughness and reliability of premium steel cans at a friendlier price, in the usual range of fuel and water colours. It’s a sensible choice for tourers who want durable steel storage without the top-tier cost, and pairs with standard jerry can holders. A solid, no-frills workhorse for carrying extra fuel. Have a quick look at the current and most recent options on Amazon for the Anvil Off-Road jerry can.
Front Runner / Quality Jerry Can Holder
The mount that matters. A can full of fuel is only as safe as what holds it — a quality jerry can holder (Front Runner and similar) bolts to a roof rack, rear bar, or tray and locks the can down so it can’t shift on corrugated tracks, while keeping fuel safely outside the cabin. Look for sturdy construction, a secure lockable strap or clamp, and compatibility with your rack or bar. The unglamorous but essential other half of carrying fuel properly. Have a quick look at the current and most recent options on Amazon for the 4×4 jerry can holder or mount.
Comparison
| Product | Best For | Material | Why It Stands Out |
|---|---|---|---|
| Wavian NATO | Toughness | Steel | Military-spec, leak-proof |
| Scepter MFC | Lightweight durability | HDPE plastic | Won’t rust, patchable |
| RotopaX | Modular rack mounting | HDPE plastic | Flat, stackable, bolt-on |
| Anvil Off-Road | Value steel | Steel | Quality steel for less |
| Jerry Can Holder | Mounting | Steel/alloy | Secure external mount |
The Verdict
Spare fuel is what makes remote touring possible, but it has to be carried with respect. Use approved containers that seal properly, choose steel for durability or quality poly for lighter weight, pour with a proper spout, and mount the cans securely outside the cabin where fumes vent to the air. Carry only as much as the distances demand, leave room for the fuel to expand, and check the rules where you travel. Do that and extra fuel becomes reassurance rather than a hazard riding on the back of the truck.
Pair it with the rest of a long-range touring setup: our guides to the best 4×4 water tanks and storage, best 4×4 roof racks and cargo systems, and best 4×4 recovery kits round out the kit.
Common Questions
Steel or plastic jerry cans: which is better?
Both work; they suit different priorities. Steel cans are extremely tough, handle heat and knocks well and last for decades, but they are heavier and can rust inside if water gets in. Quality plastic cans are lighter and rust-proof, though they can degrade in strong sun over years and may breathe slightly with temperature. Choose steel for maximum durability and long life, and a good poly can when weight and rust resistance matter more. Either way, make sure it is an approved fuel container.
Can I carry a jerry can of fuel inside the vehicle?
It is strongly advised against, and often against the rules. Fuel vapour builds up in an enclosed cabin and is both a health hazard and a serious fire risk, and a leak inside the vehicle is dangerous. Fuel should be carried outside the living space, on a roof rack, rear bar or dedicated holder, where fumes vent to open air. Always secure the can so it cannot move, and check the regulations where you travel on carrying fuel.
Should I fill a fuel can right to the top?
No. Fuel expands as it warms, so a can filled completely and then left in the sun can build pressure, weep from the seal or bulge. Leave a small air gap for expansion, close the cap properly, and keep the can out of direct heat where you can. This is especially important with plastic cans, and it is part of why a good seal and a little discipline in filling keep spare fuel safe and leak-free.